If there is one wine which has benefited most from the adoption of screwcaps, it is New Zealand Chardonnay. This is a truly personal opinion but whereas under cork the fruit tended to stray down a somewhat unattractive of path reminiscent of canned beans within a couple of years of bottling, when sealed with a screwcap they remain fresher and can be aged for many years like most other white wines.
The well rounded nose, not so much reserved as refined, works its way coyly out of the glass to reveal juicy pineapple and warm butterscotch notes. The fruit is squishy nectarine then a heavy lily of the valley pungency leads to warm baked bread and a mealy granola richness. Finally, baked fig wrapped in streaky bacon sits side by side with hot jacket potatoes split from stem to stern and oozing rich hand churned butter.
In the mouth the wine opens sweet and creamy with lovely jubey fruit and the piquancy of rhubarb pie. It has great width and breadth which placates the palate like oil poured on turbulent waters. The strong impression of dimpled grapefruit skin and crispy toasted sandwich suggests it’s thinking up top while the cowlick of vibrant acidity and a juicy pineapple juice texture shows it’s dancing like a bee down below. The wine mounts an assault on the senses like an endless line of deux chevaux spinning round the Place de l’Etoile then a barrage of flat bottomed yeastiness secures a technical knockout in the 4th round. This wine cries out for a thick winter soup, creamy leek and chicken pie or better still, mussels steamed in a rich white wine sauce.
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