“A Momentary Lapse of Riesling”; or so claims the T-shirt of yet another ever-hopeful winemaker wondering why his freshly fruited and heavily textured young wine is left sitting on the shelf. However, after 20 years of putting this variety under the noses of wine lovers we finally see the odd glimmer of recognition and realise that at long last at least some people are getting it.
A little sultry in the glass, the wine stares out from under thick lashes while standing firmly on short and surprisingly stocky legs. For while it sits slightly higher than our average for Riesling, at 12.0% the alcohol won’t knock your head off. The nose however may do just that as it is jammed packed with WOW factor and like a highly perfumed spray of carnations it has enough get-up and go to make you sneeze. Freshly shucked cape gooseberries, spicy prune and toasted ginger form an exciting platform from which melted butter and a hint of saffron freely spring. Juicy fruit and jelly bean lead expectantly through to a sandy minerality reminiscent of a barrow load of crushed limestone.
The palate too is brimming with up front fruit and a gorgeous tactility. Musty quince and fat white fleshed nectarine are tempered with zingy greengage plum, the zeal and zest of which burst through as though it has just been released from prison for a crime it may not have committed. A dollop of old fashioned tinned pineapple juice gives the wine a vibrancy and intensity which fades only slowly even after it is swallowed. There is no hint of fragility but rather a top gear bravado as the spiny acidity gains traction from the slightly lower residual sugar.
Harvest date: 15 April 2016 Residual Sugar: 9.0 g/l
Brix at Harvest: 21.6 Bottling Date: 11 August 2016
Final Alcohol: 12.0% Release Date: 1 October 2016
pH: 2.75 Cellaring: 7 to 10 years
Total Acidity: 7.40 g/l
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